Essential Oils in Skincare: Why our Tallow Skincare is Essential Oil Free, Since 2022

While testing tallow skincare in 2021, we whipped up one of our first ever batches, made with lavender essential oil (EO). The process was fairly simple. Some tallow, some jojoba oil, and some lavender EO. The smell was pleasant but a little overpowering. We weren’t in love but we gave it a try on our skin and shared it with family. The result? One of us developed a rash. The contradiction was apparent from the beginning. We were applying tallow skincare in an effort to help heal our skin barrier, but instead came out with a rash. We questioned why, and it didn't take much digging to discover it wasn't the tallow – it was the EO.

Before this deep dive, we would like to clarify that we have nothing against EO’s – we believe they have their time and place and we include them for cleaning products in our homes, among a few other uses. As we have come to learn in our 3 years of being an essential oil free business, saying anything apparently “against” EO’s is actually a controversial thing to do, likely since it’s such a major part of modern, natural skincare formulation. But, as we will get into, EO’s aren’t maybe as black and white as we are led to believe. We don’t think we are “better than” because we infuse whole plants (which of course, includes the small amount of EO’s naturally occurring in the plant). Nor are we intentionally trying to stir the pot just for likes/follows online, and we aren’t fear-mongering (all things we have been accused of over the years).

If you love using EO’s in your life and on your skin – that’s amazing, and we encourage you to do what works for you. We are simply bringing light to a topic that we have seen affect people in many ways. All of this culminates in us wanting to provide a gentle, simple product that can be effective, sustainable and made with our family – and yours – in mind. 

 

What are Essential Oils?

Essential oils are the highly concentrated, volatile oils extracted from plants using methods such as steam distillation, cold pressing or solvent extraction. Often, EO’s are used for aromatherapy and their therapeutic benefits, or as an alternative to artificial fragrances. But just because they are natural, doesn’t mean they are guaranteed safe. Some essential oils are actually required to have a Safety Data Sheet, such as those that are flammable or toxic when inhaled or ingested.

Are Essential Oils Safe?

The safety of essential oils is a topic that requires nuance, and depends on the oils being used, and how they are being used. For topical use, dilution is recommended to prevent irritation, though some oils should be avoided or used with caution for skin use. For example, using a citrus oil on your skin might not be suggested because oils such as lemon oil are considered phototoxic, meaning the oil reacts with sunlight, causing a burn. Eucalyptus oil is a highly potent oil that should not be inhaled, according to this Safety Data Sheet. A quick anecdote: Kim works in healthcare and has attended an incident in which a child was experiencing respiratory distress due to eucalyptus oil being diffused in their bedroom. Luckily with some oxygen and medical attention, everything was okay for the little one and their family. Our desire to share this story is to simply bring awareness to the potency of these concentrated oils, not to spread fear.

We believe EO’s should be treated as the potent medicine they are; there are certain ways to properly use and store them. 

When it comes to EO’s use in skincare formulation, there is a certain percentage for EO dilution that is considered safe for skin, but this small amount can still cause a reaction, for some. 

Are Essential Oils Sustainable? 

This topic is a bit complex, and depends on the plants being harvested for essential oils, as well as the practices in place. For example, to make rose essential oil, it takes approximately 10,000 pounds of rose petals to yield just 1 pound of the essential oil. If you’re considering the environmental impact of the land, water and resources needed just to grow the roses for a small number of essential oil bottles, would this be considered sustainable? 

Rising demand across the globe for essential oils in food, personal care, cosmetics and aromatherapy have exploded this sector to become a $25 billion industry. Mass-producing these oils obviously comes with environmental impacts, from the production to the distribution. 

The process of extracting EO’s is energy-intensive and the demand for some oils has even led to overharvesting. Currently, the production of EO’s is largely unregulated, leading to questioning of “organic” quality (if pesticides have been used or not) as well as purity. 

If you want to support ethical, sustainable EO brands, we suggest doing a little research into who is making them and how.

In Summary: Why We Choose Whole Plant Infusions

After deepening our understanding of the process of essential oil production, and considering the potency of these concentrated oils, we came to the decision that we would instead opt for whole-plant infusions in our tallow skincare. 

By working with the whole plant in our slow infusions, we are able to utilize the benefits of the plant in its complete form. Herbalists well know that plants in their whole form offer synergistic nutrients that work together to enhance the available vitamins, minerals and phytonutrients. When we isolate just certain compounds, in such a concentrated form, we are missing out on this synergistic effect.

Whole Plant Infusions

Gentle on skin: Whole plant infusions (ex. using dried lavender flowers instead of a lavender essential oil) are a milder alternative to the concentrated oil, making them more suitable for sensitive skin. 

Greater benefits: By using the whole plant, our infusions retain a wide range of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants from the plant. This profile is beneficial for skin health. 

Working with the skin: Some EO’s can have the opposite effect we want for the skin – they can be harsh and irritating. By incorporating the whole plant profile, the properties from herbs like chamomile, calendula, plantain, etc. can be extracted into the final product. We strive to provide products that are working with your skin barrier, and the microbiome of your skin. We want to maintain this delicate environment, not disrupt it. 

We can't dispute the aromatic, therapeutic benefits of essential oils. They can liven the mood, or relieve a headache. Essential oils are often a great alternative to fragrance oils, in certain products. But when it comes to our skin, we feel this is not the place for EO’s. We would rather hand-harvest yarrow from our pastures and incorporate the whole dried flower. We prefer the delicious, sticky feel of calendula from the garden, dried to a bright orange and blended into golden tallow. We love what plantain offers for our skin, what comfrey and chickweed and dandelion give us, grown wild under the sun and then lovingly slow-infused into gentle skincare. 

We believe EO’s are medicine, to be used intentionally and occasionally, which is why it wouldn't make sense to include EO’s in products we have intended to be gentle enough for everyday use, for the whole family!